Are you a DIY’er and need new flooring in your house? Stained concrete is the easiest flooring option for DIY project. When staining concrete you do not need any saws or special equipment. All you need is some safety protection gear and a pump up sprayer.
The hardest part about staining concrete is getting the color close to what you are looking for. The only concrete staining tip I can give you on colors is to always start with a strong dilution, meaning dilute the stain with a lot of water (if it is a water based stain) to make it lighter. You can always make the concrete floor darker, but once you have made the floor to dark you will not be able to lighten the color. You also want to consider what the floor will look like when it is sealed, most sealers will darken the floor.
Other then getting the color close to what you are looking for, staining the concrete is nothing more than spraying the concrete down using a pump sprayer with the stain in it.
If your in San Antonio and looking for concrete staining products, check out The Stain Store.
How do you repair alkali silica reaction in concrete? I wish there was a simply solution to achieving that. I had a homeowner call and tell me she was having small modules of gel leaching out of the concrete, and over time the gel would harden. She had an engineer come out and take samples of the concrete, they determined that she had alkali silica reaction or (ASR).
So I went over to the house to take a look at the problem and was amazed by what I saw. Take a look for yourself:
Alkali Silica Reaction
I’m sure you can figure out why this might be a problem. For starters she has a decorative overlay in the house that is peeling off because of this reaction. She also has sticky gel all over her floor which makes it difficult to keep clean. She asked if there was any way to prevent the gel from re-appear.
I asked a couple of different suppliers and manufactures about what can be done to stop this. For the most part they all told me the concrete has to be jack hammered out and re-poured, which is not feasible because the house is already built and she is living in it. One person told me I can use a product called Aqua Block and that might help.
I told the homeowner I would not mind messing around with it seeing if anything will help the situation. I suggested to grind the concrete down where the ASR was happening, which happens to be where all of the structural beams are. After grinding the concrete I left one area untreated and another area I treated with Aqua Block to see if that will help at all. After a couple of months I will go back and check to see if their is any improvements. If anyone has any suggestions or questions on this issue please email me at email@example.com.
This last week we got a job consisting of removing VCT flooring and then staining the concrete afterwards. The building was an older building so the chance the mastic under the VCT contained asbestos, so we decided to strip the mastic off instead of using the grinder.
After we stripped the mastic off we had to clean the concrete with a floor scrubber and degrease the floor because of using a soy bean based mastic stripper. We then acid stained the concrete using the color cola and then sealed the concrete with a solvent based sealer.
Spalling concrete can be a major issue in parking garages. Unlike concrete buildings that receive a curtain wall protecting the inside concrete floors from the weather, parking garages are open to the elements of the weather. Since the concrete parking decks are opened to the weather is it especially important to place the rebar in the correct locations and have enough concrete covering them.
A protective treatment that can be done to the parking deck after the concrete has been poured is to apply a waterproofing membrane to the concrete. This membrane will prevent water that is sitting on the concrete parking deck to leech into the concrete causing the rebar to corrode causing a spalled area. This membrane can be applied right after the concrete has cured or years after. This investment will protect the parking garage from future spalling problems that could potentially harm a pedestrian.
For more information please visit are website: http://mvlconcrete.com/concrete%20restoration%20-%20san%20antonio.htm
If your looking for a matte finish concrete floor that is easy to clean, then consider honed concrete for an option. Honed concrete is achieved by grinding the concrete to an even texture and then smoothing the surface with finer diamond pads. We typically stop at a 200 grit pad for honed concrete, if you wanted a polished surface you would continue to the next polishing pad. Honed concrete is beneficially because the duller surface wont show as much dust and dirt as a highly polished surface would. Honed concrete is an excellent choice for exterior patios and walkways. Take a look at the pictures below of an interior concrete floor that is honed to a 200 grit.
This week we had a job that consisted of removing tile and then polishing the concrete underneath the tile to create a modern concrete floor. When we started removing the tile floor we realized the tile was sitting on a mud-base that was 2″ thick. Instead of removing the tile and the mud-base we prepped the tiles to receive a self-leveling cement topping. After we poured the new concrete floor we sealed the floor with a water base sealer.
Removing Saltillo tile can be a daunting task, but for the people that do not like the tile it has to be done. There are two options for removing Saltillo tile, you can either cover it up with a leveler cement or simply demolition the tile and remove it.
Covering the Saltillo tile with leveling cement is the easiest option if the elevations allow for the added 1/4″ of cement. This process it not as easy as just pouring the cement on-top of the Saltillo tile, the tile must be prepped before doing this so the cement will bond properly.
If you want to completely remove the Saltillo tile you must beware that the tile is most likely sitting on a mud-base of Portland cement and sand. This mud-base could be 1/2″ thick or 3″ thick. So you need to plan on the elevation problems you could have if you simply remove the tile.
Below is a video of us removing the Saltillo tile and its mud-base. If you need Saltillo tile removal in San Antonio give us a call at (210) 422-6116 to schedule an appointment.
Concrete spalling is very common in parking garages. The spalling occurs when the rebar in the concrete starts to corrode due to water seeping into the concrete. As the rebar corrodes it expands causing a piece of the concrete to break off.
Overhead spalling concrete can be dangerous to occupants in the parking garage. Pieces of concrete could fall and hit someone causing a lawsuit. It is relatively easy to repair the spalling concrete in the parking garage if done sooner than later. When rebar corrodes it could spread causing bigger areas to spall off.
The pictures below is an example of an overhead piece of concrete spalling in a parking garage. We offer parking garage restoration services in San Antonio, TX.
The bottom concrete slab of this parking garage had many cracks that were between 1/4″ to 1/2″ wide. The cracks were left alone for many years allowing water to drain into them. Overtime the concrete slab started to sink because the water started to erode the sub-base.
To help prevent further erosion, we cleaned out the cracks with a saw blade and then filled them with a flexible sealant.
Stay tuned for more pictures in a couple of weeks of other parking garage repairs. We will next be repairing spalling concrete on the slab-on-grade.
A common area for spalling concrete is underneath exterior formed concrete stairs. The spalling is caused by water seeping into the concrete corroding the rebar. As the rust forms on the rebar it expands causing the concrete to break off.
To prevent this from happening, you should have the top surface of the concrete stairs waterproofed. Waterproofing concrete involves prepping the concrete and then troweling on a special waterproofing cement. This will help prevent water from soaking into the concrete corroding the rebar.